This outstanding outpost of the venerable Mandarin Oriental brand impresses even more than most.
This outstanding outpost of the venerable Mandarin Oriental brand impresses even more than most.
By Anthony Dennis
February 8, 2025 — 4.00am
The hotel
Mandarin Oriental Muscat, Oman
Check-in
Talk about an early check-in. After a half-a-day flight from Australia, my arrival in Muscat is in the still pitch-black wee hours. When my driver, en route from the airport informs me we’re nearing the hotel, I fail to discern any tell-tale tower in the distance. Then I get it. This is the capital of the Sultanate of Oman, where strict building height limits exist. Not being, or desiring to be, another Dubai, along with the advent of international five-star hotel brands like a Mandarin Oriental opened only mid last year, is why a safe and stable Muscat is rapidly building, as it were, as an attractive Gulf stopover, and more.
The look
In Muscat, a city wedged captivatingly along a long, narrow strip of coastline between the Gulf of Oman and the Hajar Mountains, white is the regulation building colour due to the intense summer heat. I’m here in the still warm, but far more tolerable so-called winter with the low-level Mandarin Oriental Muscat itself a sober vision in white. Since it’s located in the capital’s exclusive diplomatic district, it could be mistaken for a gracious embassy. Inside the tall, desert rose-marbled lobby, entered through traditional Omani carved timber doors, colour is more evident. This inviting light-drenched, though cooling space is framed by a stunning multi-hued crystal chandelier below which high tea is served around indoor fountains and Arabian latticework.
The room
Decorated by French interior designer Xavier Cartron, the hotel’s 103 rooms and 47 ocean- or mountain-view suites, characteristic of the Mandarin Oriental brand, are generously proportioned and finely detailed. My deluxe seafront king room overlooks Muscat’s premier strip of sand, Shatti Al-Qurum, although this being a Muslim city, there’s absolutely no risk of rowdy beach parties or parading bare bottoms. The room is tastefully imbued with Omani design influences including a huge statement bedhead flanked by Arabian-style metal lamps inspired by ceremonial khanjar daggers (don’t be scared) and frankincense burners. The marbled and lavishly equipped bathroom, nearly as large as the main room itself, features a Moroccan-like turquoise geometric mosaic wall, a bold contrast to the overall softer hues inspired by those aforementioned golden sands.
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Food + drink
The quintet of sophisticated internationally themed in-house dining venues include the Italian-inspired Essenza and the Asian-influenced Rawya, overlooking the glamorous and expansive, resort-like hotel pool. Don’t overlook the outstanding though relatively limited Arabic dishes on the menu at Rawya (which means “storytelling” in Arabic), including joojeh kabob, a marinated chicken grilled tomato and yoghurt dish, and lamb qabuli, spiced braised lamb shank, yoghurt and basmati rice.
Out + about
Head to Mutrah, Muscat’s historic 16th-century Portuguese colonial-era port, in the minutes before dawn when the golden Gulf sun emerges spectacularly over the surrounding craggy peaks as open-topped fishing boats putter back into port with the morning’s fresh catch. Mutrah’s famous, if a little predictable, souk opens later, and nearby is Bait Al Lubant, an excellent and not overly touristy Omani restaurant open for lunch or dinner. Elsewhere, the extravagant Muscat Royal Opera House, the spectacular Grand Mosque and the imposing Al Marini Fortress are all worth a visit.
The verdict
Mandarin Oriental hotels rarely, if ever, fail to impress, with this particular outstanding outpost of the venerable brand impressing even more than most. Oh, and Muscat itself? It’s a true must.
Essentials
Rooms from $452 a night (low season, conditions apply). Mandarin Oriental Muscat, Way 2827, Shatti Al Qurum, Muscat, Oman. Phone +968 2103 8888. See mandarinoriental.com
Our rating out of five
★★★★★
HighlightMuscat is a marvellous antidote to a more urgent Dubai with much to see, do and enjoy on a stopover of a few days, or as part of a longer visit to Oman.
Lowlight
At the Mandarin Oriental’s otherwise excellent Italian restaurant, the waitstaff could ease up a little on the excess Italianness.
The writer travelled as a guest of Viking Cruises, Mandarin Oriental and with assistance of Etihad. See vikingcruises.com.au; etihad.com
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Anthony Dennis is editor, travel, at The Age and The Sydney Morning Herald.Connect via Twitter.
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