Appellations are back in the news again, as if the wine world doesn’t have enough to worry about. It is becoming fashionable to attack historical appellations and the rigid rules they impose on winemaking. Read More
Many growers struggling to survive in a very different world, where climate change has upended everything they knew to be true about growing grapes and making wine
Advertisement 1
Many growers struggling to survive in a very different world, where climate change has upended everything they knew to be true about growing grapes and making wine
Reviews and recommendations are unbiased and products are independently selected. Postmedia may earn an affiliate commission from purchases made through links on this page.
Article content
Appellations are back in the news again, as if the wine world doesn’t have enough to worry about. It is becoming fashionable to attack historical appellations and the rigid rules they impose on winemaking.
Article content
While many might think appellations are all about place, in many countries, particularly in Europe, AOCs, DOCs, D.O.s, and the like, also lay out strict guidelines for what can and cannot be done in the vineyard and at the winery. Historically, the regulations were designed to raise the standard of wine in the region.
Article content
Article content
Story continues below
Article content
What seemed like a good idea in the 1950s, 1960s, and 1970s is now becoming an issue for many growers struggling to survive in a very different world, where climate change has upended everything they knew to be true about growing grapes and making wine.
Article content
Sunrise
Article content
Reflecting on how we used to memorize and gravitate to the great vintages when buying wine, I now wonder if, in the future, there might be any connection to a vintage and its wine. The constant threat of wildfires, atmospheric rivers, prolonged droughts, as well as hurricanes, tornadoes, and flash floods, has upended the wine world. This annual variability has led many growers to reconsider regulations that limit their options in vineyard management and wine production.
Article content
Looking forward, chaotic climate events are unlikely to subside anytime soon, and as the world returns to weaker standards for CO2 emissions, it’s doubtful that such events will cease. In the face of inaction, famed Pomerol producer Chateau Lafleur stunned the wine world by announcing it would be leaving the Bordeaux Pomerol appellation and all its rules for the lowest designated wine classification in France: Vin de France. Feeling handcuffed by climate change and unsuccessful in getting authorities to make changes, they decided to reset their path by identifying five solutions they want to have in their wine growing tool kit.
Article content
Story continues below
Article content
The list included “adapting planting density to actual water reserves, backing away from the super dense 5,000 vines/ha, generalizing mulching to limit soil evaporation, authorizing permanent or temporary shading devices, allowing a significant reduction of canopy height, and, above all, regulating irrigation — not by limiting it, but by clearly defining its framework.”
Article content
Article content
As Canadian producers continue to struggle to agree on any single national wine law regulation of any gravitas, they would do well to heed some of Lafleur’s solutions to address climate change. I still believe every wine should have a certified origin, but after that, I’m not sure we need to spend time controlling yields, approved grape types, vine density, alcohol levels, aging limits, and dozens of other rules that are no longer relevant. Consumers will ultimately decide if the wine is any good.
Advertisement 1
Advertisement 2
Advertisement
Article content
As it happens, the Okanagan is enjoying a brief respite from climate calamities in 2025. Following a zero-crop year after a devastating January 2024 deep freeze, the vineyards that were not replanted have rebounded, delivering a generous amount of bunches, many of which exceeded expectations, along with an acceptable level of quality. Nothing is for sure until all the fruit is picked and in the barn, so to speak, but the signs are encouraging.
Article content
Despite the positive vineyard news, the B.C. government has announced additional support for local winegrowers with another round of replacement wines to fill the estimated shortfall still expected this fall. The first replacement red wines are expected to enter the market this fall and next spring, but you can anticipate encountering subsequent replacement wines in the market through 2029.
Article content
Story continues below
Article content
All the more reason to draw inspiration from Chateau Lafleur’s actions and implement thoughtful, flexible regulations now that provide our G.I. or appellation-based wines with the necessary tools to withstand whatever Mother Nature has planned for us next and keep our local wines local.
Article content
Weekend wine picks
Article content
Article content
Pfaff Pinot Gris 2023, Alsace, France
Article content
$24.99 I 89/100
Article content
UPC: 3185130071025
Article content
Pfaff consistently overdelivers for its price range, while managing to bottle the distinctive Alsace style. On the palate, this wine portends richness and length, offering layers of ripe melon and spicy ginger complemented by a slightly off-dry profile of smoky yellow fruits and subtle honeysuckle. Expressive without excess, it pairs well with spicy sushi rolls. It is ready to drink.
Article content
Article content
Louis Latour Ardèche Chardonnay 2023, France
Article content
$26.99 I 89/100
Article content
Story continues below
Article content
UPC: 00026861000218
Article content
Maison Louis Latour has been growing Chardonnay and making wine in Ardèche since 1979. Over the decades, the warmer climate and clay-limestone soils have combined to yield an impressive, yet inexpensive, French Chardonnay. The Latour Ardèche project lasted 12 years and resulted in the winery working with 200 growers, selecting terroirs best suited to the Chardonnay they had long since mastered in Burgundy. Unlike in Burgundy, the vines are not subject to uncertain weather conditions, and the grapes attain full ripeness each year. All of which leads to a delicious fresh green apple nose and a riper red apple fruit palate sprinkled with hazelnuts, honey, and a dusting of lees. If you love simple seafood dishes, this is the wine for you — back up the truck.
Article content
Article content
JoieFarm En Famille Gewurztraminer 2023, Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley
Story continues below
Article content
$30.99 I 89/100
Article content
UPC: 626990266242
Article content
This En Famille Gewurztraminer is estate-grown on the Naramata Bench, featuring clones 643 and 47. While nodding to Alsace, it presents a distinctly B.C. profile with crisp, spicy, floral notes, as well as green apple, ripe pear, pineapple, black licorice, and citrus rind. Off-dry yet not cloying, it spends 10 months on its lees plus a year in bottle before release. Think turkey.
Article content
Article content
Famille Sichel Château Daviaud 2022, Bordeaux, France
Article content
$21.99 I 90/100
Article content
UPC: 3394150053724
Article content
The winemaking process is traditional, and the wine ages in oak for a period of six months. I enjoyed 2020, and 2022 may be better. Expect cherries and currants to have a fine structure, and the class that only Bordeaux can produce. Charming is the word again for this delicious modern reference to everyday Bordeaux — a serious bargain.
Article content
Story continues below
Article content
Article content
Antinori Pèppoli Chianti Classico 2023, Tuscany, Italy
Article content
$33.99 I 91/100
Article content
UPC: 8001935001362
Article content
Pèppoli is a single estate in Chianti Classico owned and farmed by Marchesi Antinori. It is primarily Sangiovese and complemented by other indigenous grapes. As hot as 2023 was in Italy, one of the warmest years on record, Tuscany mainly emerged unscathed, retaining its rich style. Ripe fruit with a thread of choialte. This wine is sure to be a hit with many. The textures are luxurious for Sangiovese, which opens with noticeably softer, fleshy, and black-cherry fruit, accompanied by dense, sweet tannins — polished in a way that most Classicos are not. Drink or hold.
Article content
Article content
B.C. wine of the week
Article content
Article content
Black Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2023, Okanagan Valley
Article content
$35 I 90/100
Article content
UPC: 058976503377
Article content
It’s hard to describe the transformation of this wine under winemaker Ross Wise and current winemaker Ryan McKibbon. It was always excellent under the Alibi label when it contained a percentage of Sémillon, but the move to 100 per cent Sauvignon Blanc in 2023 has supercharged the wine. The nose is lively and fresh, with classic passion fruit and herbaceous hints, as well as intense lime notes. Everything is enveloped in a polished frame that presents an additional level of complexity. You will love the intensity and weight of this wine, along with its minerality, which allows it to persist for an extended period during the finish. Anything shellfish would be a fine match.
Article content
Story continues below
Article content
Article content
Value wine of the week
Article content
Famille Perrin Côtes du Rhône Rouge Réserve 2022, Rhone Valley, France
Article content
$18.99 I 88/100
Article content
UPC: 631470000131
Article content
The Perrin family continues to solidify its position as a trusted producer of wines, as evidenced by this Côtes du Rhône Rouge. This classic style bistro red pairs well with chicken wings, ribs, or frites. Expect a fresh, bright, and fleshy Southern red blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre, full of black cherry and raspberry flavours, with a hint of black and white pepper. The finish is warm and long. Good value.
Article content
Article content
Calendar Items
Article content
Today is the last day to order Thanksgiving turkey to-go from the Hotel Vancouver from the comfort of your home, as prepared by executive chef Mike Reid. All you need to do is pick up your order on Sunday, Oct. 12, and warm it for your guests when you’re ready to eat. Detailed heating instructions are included. You have two options: $315 serves four to five guests, or $475 serves wight to 10 guests. The trimmings for both include Traditional Herb Brioche Stuffing, Buttermilk Mashed Potatoes, Honey-spiced Carrots, Blistered Brussel Sprouts, Cinnamon Maple Glazed Yams, Classic Pan Gravy Cranberry Compote, Artisan Rolls and Butter and Spiced Pumpkin Cheesecake.
Story continues below
Article content
•••
Article content
The Chefs’ Table Society of B.C. is set to open its Culinary Commons today, marking the launch of North America’s first not-for-profit industry hub, located at 1250 East Georgia St. in Vancouver. The not-for-profit organization, conceived and built by CTS, will be dedicated to advancing B.C.’s culinary and hospitality heritage while supporting the sustainability of the culinary and hospitality trades and serving as a landmark for chefs, restaurateurs, food producers, sommeliers, butchers, bakers, pastry chefs, fishmongers, and amateur enthusiasts. Shawna Gardham, executive director of CT, says the aim is to “become the largest culinary and hospitality archive in North America that is open to the public, while actively engaging the professional and amateur culinary community.” CTS Culinary Commons will be open to both professionals and the public from Tuesday through Saturday, 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., starting Oct. 14.
Article content
Discover more from World Byte News
Subscribe to get the latest posts sent to your email.
