It’s 11 hours by train from Sydney to Melbourne, but it doesn’t take a genius to see why plenty of Australians are still opting for the painfully long journey.
It’s 11 hours by train from Sydney to Melbourne, but it doesn’t take a genius to see why plenty of Australians are still opting for the painfully long journey.
Opinion
January 21, 2025 — 2.31pm
It takes 11 hours to ride the train from Sydney to Melbourne and vice versa. Eleven hours from Central Station to Southern Cross, or the other way around.
Take into account the commute to the city and out again – which, if you’re relying on strike-prone Sydney trains could take anywhere from a few minutes to a few hours – and you’re looking at 12 to 13 hours of travel all up.
If you were to fly that same route, you would spend 1.5 hours in a plane, maybe an hour each side to get to and from the airport, and an hour at the airport before your flight – 4.5 hours, assuming no delays.
It’s a big difference.
Yet plenty of Australian travellers are opting for the longer journey. Transport NSW, which operates the twice-daily XPT service between Sydney and Melbourne, has had to add extra carriages to its interstate trains, and tickets are selling out.
Year-on-year patronage of the XPT was up 14 per cent in the 2023-24 financial year, and in July to December last year, there was another big jump.
It doesn’t take a genius to figure out what the attraction is. Sydney to Melbourne is the world’s fifth-busiest flight route, with more than 9 million airline passengers a year (just behind Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City), but it also remains in the grip of the Qantas-Virgin duopoly, with prices that fluctuate wildly with demand.
The train, meanwhile, has a set price of $83 each way, or $117 during peak holiday periods.
For $83, you can stroll on board with no security checks carrying one 10-kilogram piece of hand luggage, and one 20-kilogram piece of large luggage (two pieces if you choose first class). You can check your larger pieces of luggage in or carry them on board.
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You’ll then have 11 hours to luxuriate in your seat (which reclines 28 degrees and 40 in first class), visit the restaurant car, read a book, stare out the window.
Of course, you won’t be able to charge devices because there are no electrical outlets or USB ports, and you’ll barely be able to use your phone anyway, because the tinting on the windows of the XPT trains blocks not just the sun, but also mobile phone signals.
You will also travel painfully slowly at some points, and find yourself daydreaming pointlessly about Japanese shinkansen and the French TGV as you sit stationary in a siding waiting for a coal train to pass.
The Sydney to Melbourne train service, let’s face it, is terrible. On a global scale, in comparison to the likes of Japan, South Korea, China, Switzerland, Austria, Spain, France and so many more, we’re an absolute joke.
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Yet plenty of people in Australia still want to ride the train, and more people are doing it. They’re doing this because it’s cheaper, of course. But I imagine there are other reasons.
Trains are, after all, the ultimate way to travel. You can’t convince me otherwise. Carbon emissions are far lower, the comfort and convenience levels are far higher (in most countries at least), and there’s just something so wholesome and enjoyable about seeing the world from the window of a train.
You get to see that world, for starters. You get to watch the way landscapes connect, the way mountains become plains, forests become meadows, rivers rush into the sea. You get to sleep, if you’re really lucky, to the gentle click-clack of carriages and occasional platform announcements in foreign languages.
There’s romance to train travel that you will never get in a plane. There’s comfort and conviviality that you will never find in an airport security queue or when you’re crammed into a car or bus.
For these and many other reasons, there’s a thirst in Australia to become a nation of train travellers. I firmly believe that.
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It’s happening now, in a small way, even with such dire rail options, even though you have to spend three times as long getting from A to B, even though you can’t even charge your devices, let alone hope for Wi-Fi or a decent phone signal.
The necessity of air travel has become so deeply ingrained into the Australian psyche, entrenched by powerful airline lobby groups and politicians unwilling to commit to large-scale rail projects, that there are still people who argue that Australia just isn’t suitable for long-distance train travel.
That’s despite a large and ever-growing population base clustered in a relatively small area between two major centres (Sydney to Melbourne is roughly the same distance as Tokyo to Hiroshima – and you can do that in under four hours on the shinkansen).
Despite all the obvious issues with our system, the popularity of long-distance train travel in Australia is increasing, beyond our capacity to handle it.
Australia could be a nation of train travellers. We love it in other countries. We even put up with the inconveniences here. Maybe one day we will have a rail system to match the enthusiasm.
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Ben Groundwater is a Sydney-based travel writer, columnist, broadcaster, author and occasional tour guide with more than 25 years’ experience in media, and a lifetime of experience traversing the globe. He specialises in food and wine – writing about it, as well as consuming it – and at any given moment in time Ben is probably thinking about either ramen in Tokyo, pintxos in San Sebastian, or carbonara in Rome. Follow him on Instagram @bengroundwaterConnect via email.
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