Last July, the B.C. provincial government announced it granted temporary relief for B.C. wineries to incorporate out-of-province grapes for the 2024 vintage. The changes dealt with two significant winter events in 2022 and 2024 that led to substantial plant and production damage. Most interior wineries lost almost 50 per cent of their crop in 2023 and close to 95 per cent in 2024. Read More
The so-called replacement wines using grapes from outside the province are hitting shelves and websites
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The so-called replacement wines using grapes from outside the province are hitting shelves and websites

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Last July, the B.C. provincial government announced it granted temporary relief for B.C. wineries to incorporate out-of-province grapes for the 2024 vintage. The changes dealt with two significant winter events in 2022 and 2024 that led to substantial plant and production damage. Most interior wineries lost almost 50 per cent of their crop in 2023 and close to 95 per cent in 2024.
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As predicted, there are shortages, and the first wave of replacement wines is here and for sale online and in the marketplace at private and government stores. Wine Growers British Columbia (WGBC), which is responsible for the marketing, merchandising and communications of B.C. wine, has decided to position the replacement wines as “Crafted in B.C.” and is working to “ensure transparency as the region navigates this temporary adjustment.”
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Here’s what you need to know: The Fraser Valley and Vancouver Island escaped the deep freeze and are operating at full capacity, with no reduction in production. They have lots of wine. A handful of interior wineries with deeper inventories or access to a broad selection of vineyards across the region have decided to work with what wines and vines they have. Their wines will be bottled and labelled as usual under the British Columbia Wine Authority (BCWA) regulations, meaning they are 100 per cent B.C. grown and made. To be clear, BCWA has no authority over wines made with out-of-province fruit.
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That leaves those producers who made the difficult decision to keep their staff working and doors open by bringing in grapes from outside of B.C. The so-called replacement (or “Crafted in B.C.”) wines that originate from out of the province fall under the jurisdiction of the Canadian Food Inspection Agency. Somewhere on the label, likely on the back in small type, you will find the official CFIA classification: “Product of Canada made with Foreign and Domestic Ingredients” or under a recent change in wording, you may see “Product of Canada made with Foreign and Domestic Grapes.”
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Most wineries making replacement wines are working to be as transparent as possible. Many labels on the front of the bottle state it is Washington, Oregon or California grown and British Columbia made. There will be some graphic or logo connection to the original B.C. winery label, but most have, at a minimum, changed the colour of the label, if not the entire design.
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Many wineries have created new series names to differentiate their replacement wines from VQA releases. Some of the early series names I’m seeing include Orofino: Few and Far Between; Bartier Bros.: Pristine; Poplar Grove: The Cascadia Series; Quails’ Gate: Field and Flight; Lightning Rock: Vilicus; and Tantalus: Further Afield Series.
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From an artwork point of view, I’m impressed with the creative ideas I’m seeing from the replacement labels. Hopefully, this will stir more local producers to consider modifying or updating their label designs and logos.
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The experience gained by winery personnel searching for new sites and new grapes — and, generally, stepping out of their comfort zone — to make different wines is even more valuable. Winemakers I have spoken with have told me it’s been a challenging but exhilarating experience they hope you will embrace while they bring their vineyards backup to speed.
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Weekend wine picks
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Parés Baltà Cava Brut B Organic N/V, Penedès, Cataluña, Spain
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$27.50 I 89/100
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UPC: 8410439034354
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It’s been a few years since we tasted this sparkler, which is widely available in select private retailers but not government stores. There are very few Penedes Cava with more pedigree than the organic Parés Baltà Cava Brut B. Fresh, clean and dry, and it comes with creamy textures and friendly flavours. It is the perfect wedding sparkler for large parties but interesting enough for the enthusiast. The fruit mixes parellada, macabeo and xarel-lo that release nutty, creamy, green apple, mineral/floral aromas and flavours. Acceptable value and food-friendly, this is worth looking for in the private wine shops.
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Moselland Piesporter Michelsberg Riesling Kabinett, Mosel, Germany
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$18.49 I 87/100
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UPC: 04006975004124
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A Mosel Kabinett Riesling is the perfect wine to kick off the spring season. While Michelsburg, based in Bernkastel, has been around forever, it comes from one of the top co-ops in the region. The style is just off-dry, but it’s barely noticeable, given the citrus, apricot and green apple fruity flavours, and its clean, crisp finish. This crunchy white can be enjoyed solo on a warm patio or paired with a favourite spicy sushi roll or pork dish. Available in 167 stores.
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Hester Creek Viognier Columbia Valley Collection 2024, Columbia Valley, Washington, United States
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$23.99 I 88/100
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UPC: 626990222057
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There are two divergent styles of Viognier and the Hester Creek Washington version from the Goose Gape AVA inside the Columbia Valley is from the bright, fresh, floral side. The nose and palate are full of ripe apricot aromas and flavours doused in citrus and white pepper, with an almost off-dry undercurrent. The winery suggests flavourful Indian dishes, like a butter chicken or veggie korma, and we wish we had one while we were tasting this replacement wine.
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Père Anselme La Fiole Côtes du Rhône 2022, Southern Rhone Valley, France
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$17.99 I 87/100
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UPC: 03217661015343
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Straight up, ready to drink Côtes du Rhône with a mostly supple texture that runs through the wine. Cherries and raspberries with a lick of licorice finish the palate, leaving a solid mid-week red at a bargain price. The Brotte family is behind the Pere Anselme La Fiole Côtes du Rhône, a blend of Grenache and Syrah sold in a strange-shaped bottle that mimics the bent and twisted vines of the region that take their natural shape in the face of the ever-present Mistral Wind.
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Castellare di Castellina Chianti Classico 2022, Tuscany, Italy
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$39.99 I 90/100
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UPC: 8033803760002
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The ’22 is a 95/5 mix of sangioveto/canaiolo grown in vineyards at Castellina in Chianti. The style is classic. It has more of that bloody red fruit character, forest floor and a rub of rusticity that makes it food friendly. The palate is fresh with more red/black fruit flavours streaked with licorice and a hint of barrel. It spends a moderate seven months in the barrel and seven more months in the bottle before release. Perfect for meaty pasta dishes or grilled chicken. Ready to drink. Exclusive to Marquis Wine Cellars and Nook Restaurants.
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• The Painted Rock tasting room will reopen its cellar door for the season from 11 a.m. to 5:30 p.m., Thursday through Monday until the May long weekend, when it will then open daily from 11 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. Reservations are available; walk-ins are welcome. The Seated Estate Tasting features a flight of five red wines and includes the flagship Red Icon. Tastings are $20 per person or complimentary for Wine Club members for up to four people. Also, the property is booking weddings again, one per week from June through September (excluding long weekends), from 4 p.m. to 12 a.m. You will find all the details on their website.
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• Did you know that Vatican City consumes more wine per capita than any other country on Earth? Figures for 2019 suggest a population of 800 citizens is drinking 79 litres per year — or 99 bottles. That is double that of France or Italy. However, as significant as those numbers are, after you account for the thousands of clergies, employees, Swiss Guards, diplomats and pilgrims who work within the wall without holding Vatican passports, the adjusted consumption drops to about 10 to 15 litres per person. That is more in line with countries like Germany, Canada and the U.K. That said, the Vatican is a rare, high-quality, low-cost wine zone that provides a friendly environment for wine lovers before or after mass. It doesn’t hurt that visitors often take advantage of the Vatican’s tax-free supermarket wine.
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B.C. wine of the week
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Quails’ Gate Chardonnay 2022, West Kelowna, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
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$26.99 I 89/100
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UPC: 778856121018
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The Quails’s Gate Chardonnay is a friendly introduction to serious B.C. Chardonnay. It comes from several family owned sites and ferments in a mix of vessels from stainless steel tanks to neutral French oak. It goes through partial malolactic fermentation to add a creamy character, while retaining freshness. The attack is a balanced mix of citrus and creamy bakery notes spiked with fresh pear and barrel spice. The stylish, round and easy-to-drink white is the perfect Chardonnay at a price point you can serve to crowds — shellfish, halibut and roasted chicken all work here.
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Value wine of the week
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Ormarine Picpoul de Pinet Les Pins De Camille 2022, Coteaux du Languedoc, Sud de France
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$21.99 I 88/100
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UPC: 3186127768690
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The Ormarine Picpoul de Pinet has, slowly but surely, built a devoted audience who appreciates the slim southern French variety that provides a realistic challenge to Sauvignon Blanc, especially when served with food. Look for fresh, mineral, citrus-scented, flavoured white with honey, ginger and quince streaks. This wine is made for decks, patios, bite-sized food and local shellfish as the weather warms up. Pinet sits north of Etang de Thau on windswept limestone/clay soils near the Mediterranean Sea, the latter working as an air conditioner, the former keeping the vines dry and healthy.
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